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High Torque starter for 351 Cleveland
#1
Hello,

Last year i have modified my 351 cleveland to a 408 stroker cleveland. Since we have finished I really have problem to start the engine in warm/hot conditions. No problems in the morning when the engine is cold.

Does anyone have knowledge of such a problem ? I have seen some High Torque starters on Ebay but I could find no one matching to my 351C with automatic transmission.
Would be fine to get some input for my problem.

Best regards

Hassler Christian
Austria/Europe

best regards Christian

My Mustang is a "hybrid vehicle" it burns fuel and rubber Big Grin
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#2
Have you played around with your timing after its warmed up?
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#3
could be bad silinoid...But could be something else....I replaced the noid twice on mine...got a high cranking battery....still after it warmed up...it would act like it didnt have enough power to start..It would really struggle....I would feel where the wire went down too the starter it was getting hot at the bolt going to the silinoid...after i let it cool..It would crank over like a dream!! Come to find out my starter even know it worked...was grounding out on the inside and getting hot too...And using too much juice ....I replaced the starter and wires going too it...that fixed the issue.
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#4
hassi01;61190 Wrote:Hello,

Last year i have modified my 351 cleveland to a 408 stroker cleveland. Since we have finished I really have problem to start the engine in warm/hot conditions. No problems in the morning when the engine is cold.

Does anyone have knowledge of such a problem ? I have seen some High Torque starters on Ebay but I could find no one matching to my 351C with automatic transmission.
Would be fine to get some input for my problem.

Best regards

Hassler Christian
Austria/Europe

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-new-f...d0001.aspx

I believe this is the one you want. Email them to be sure. They also sell on ebay.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#5
Hello,

Hyena`s starting problem sounds similar to mine. In warm conditions the starter has not enough power to start the engine. No single movement. Sometimes after a view attempts the starter can move the flywheel a view inches and after that is works perfect.
Do you think I will need a something like a high torque starter ore just try to replace my old one.

best regards

Christian
Hy Tommy,

Thanks for the Link. But i think this one fits only to Windsor engines. The Cleveland has the solenoid inside of the fender.



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best regards Christian

My Mustang is a "hybrid vehicle" it burns fuel and rubber Big Grin
  Reply
#6
hassi01;61198 Wrote:Hello,

Hyena`s starting problem sounds similar to mine. In warm conditions the starter has not enough power to start the engine. No single movement. Sometimes after a view attempts the starter can move the flywheel a view inches and after that is works perfect.
Do you think I will need a something like a high torque starter ore just try to replace my old one.

best regards

Christian
Hy Tommy,

Thanks for the Link. But i think this one fits only to Windsor engines. The Cleveland has the solenoid inside of the fender.

To the best of my knowledge, Windsor/Cleveland=same starter.

Reference: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-mini-...ht=starter

Will work with factory solenoid.

On another note try backing out 2 degrees of initial timing and see if that helps.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#7
Several things come to mind, check your cables for corrosion and proper sizing, check the engine to frame ground and the starter to engine ground. Make sure you do not have too much initial ignition timing. Have the reserve capacity of your battery checked.

Start with the simple / cheap things and work your way through the system.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#8
You should not need a high torque and high priced starter (I also have a 408C with a locally rebuilt OEM Ford starter). Please check grounds, connections, and timing as previously suggested. If the starter is a NEW, non-OEM starter it may not have the same torque capabilities of the OEM starter. The solenoid , as previously mentioned, could be the problem if the contacts inside have become high resistance (burnt). All of the above assumes the clearances of the engine internals were properly set. Chuck
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#9
Good morning,

Thanks for all of the Input information. As proposed I think I will start with
• Check of cabling
• replacing the solenoid
• replacing the starter

Due to the symptom that the starter does not make a single revolution in case of failure it should not be a problem of timing

Keep you informed. Thanks a lot.

best regards Christian

My Mustang is a "hybrid vehicle" it burns fuel and rubber Big Grin
  Reply
#10
hassi01;61274 Wrote:Good morning,

Thanks for all of the Input information. As proposed I think I will start with
• Check of cabling
• replacing the solenoid
• replacing the starter

Due to the symptom that the starter does not make a single revolution in case of failure it should not be a problem of timing

Keep you informed. Thanks a lot.
Good luck...sounds like a good battle plan too me....I hated when my car did that...I would have to leave it runing at the pumps...And if i went to visit a freind or go out...i had to plan to sit there atleast 30 min while my starter cooled down..lol
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