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step to get it to run right
#1
Alright so I am running the vaccum to the correct stops, but I have to make it drivable on friday to get ti to the exhaust shop. I have a 1406 Edler 600CFM, I took the jets out and before I did I tighten them all the way down to see how far they were out. The right side was 5 turns and the left was 7.

This cannot be right because when I fired it up yesterday about three inch flames came out of the headers which I am not a smart man but think that is a little to rich. I cleaned them out and put them back on and took them all the way down and started it up but it just smells funny.

I am at a loss for words, I know I need to set my timing and I think my advance is finally set up right. I only have two vacs going to the carb one is the dis in the front and the other is the brake booster in the rear. Hold on Ill take some pics, brb, wait for it

The first is the front and the one vac is connected to the dist advance
[Image: 29m88eb.jpg]
The second is the rear which is only controlled byt the brake booster
[Image: qrlvlx.jpg]

I am going to go next door and see if my neig has a timing light
I still have them backed off one turn I got on line and scope the instruction manual but it really doesnt give you a brake down on how to know when enough is enough

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#2
Run mixture screws all the way in turn out 2 full turns and hook up vacuum gauge start motor and adjust till you get the highest vacuum reading on gauge and you should be okay

[Image: 2zdx09d.png]
Yea,Tho i cruise through the valley of the shadow of rice,I will fear no Turbo,For Torque art with me.Thy rods and crankshaft,they comfort me. Big Grin Robert
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#3
thundertc64;60738 Wrote:Run mixture screws all the way in turn out 2 full turns and hook up vacuum gauge start motor and adjust till you get the highest vacuum reading on gauge and you should be okay

+1 on that. once you have it running a vacum gauge will get you set up perfect.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#4
You need to keep turning down the idle to the desired engine speed while adjusting the idle mixture screws.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#5
This may be helpful to you. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/...manual.pdf
Chuck
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#6
can I pick up a gauge at a local oriellys. and can I hook it up to any vac plug on the front.

I also hooked up my linkage and ran through the gears and lights comes on when in R but the car will not move either front or back. I am sure it is some small and dumb but it is killing me. What would I do without you guys. I will get teh gauge and hook it up. still waiting on the timing light
I downloaded the Instruction manual but that is like reading greek

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#7
Yours has the fmx trans so the neutral safety/back up light switch is located on the shifter instead of the trans itself , so when you put it in reverse lights will come on , double check the fluid level to see if it is low . if i remember right it is the port on the drivers side front of the carb you want to hook vacuum gauge to and also run your idle screw down till it is idling at about 550 to 600 rpm's and adjust mixture screws to highest vacuum . ( anything above 600-700 rpm you bypass the idle circuit and can't really get a good setting )

[Image: 2zdx09d.png]
Yea,Tho i cruise through the valley of the shadow of rice,I will fear no Turbo,For Torque art with me.Thy rods and crankshaft,they comfort me. Big Grin Robert
  Reply
#8
I'll get that guage in the am. Am I going to cause damage running straight headers. I am trying to get it on but I am stuck right now.

I'll check the fulid in the am but cannot figure out why I am not getting movement. I will get under there and make sure nothing is loose. Even though it sucks I love this
I'll get that guage in the am. Am I going to cause damage running straight headers. I am trying to get it on but I am stuck right now.

I'll check the fulid in the am but cannot figure out why I am not getting movement. I will get under there and make sure nothing is loose. Even though it sucks I love this

Am I getting a standard vaccum gauge?

1973 MACH ONE H CODE "RUSS"
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#9
You'll be asking for a vacuum test gauge. You're going to love this thing dialing in your engine. But beware, as in previouse posts, adjusting 1 thing changes another (like cold idle). That's why it's called playing with your car. There really is no "set this here or that there" you work to get the maximum for your needs and wants and the gauge tells you the engine agrees.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#10
primary and secondary jet are different sizes, so make sure the are set correctly. I bought a new carb before I found the problem idling.

Alan L

[Image: 1_30_09_13_10_12_32.png]
Alan L
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