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Starter binds on hot restart
Good morning to most. Bin awhile since I was on last, about 200 members ago. Have put about 700 mile on OH motor now and must let her sit and cool for about 15minutes before stater will crank to restart. Does crank fine cold. Maybe header heat and weak starter to blam? Chevy co-worker metioned could be lower bearing concern which raised some hairs on the back of my neck. Has new starter cable which does get warm (starter draw) Does anyone know if other year fords use the same starters? Have rebuilt lots of starters in my day but not parts avail. now.

Alan L

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Alan L
If your headers are too close, you may be heating it up - do you have the deflector shield that was original to the engine. It was a piece of metal (with asbestos cloth glued on) that attached via the engine mount bolt holes. It provided a heat shield over a portion of the starter. If not, I would not be difficult to fabricate something out of sheet metal.

Is the starter new? If not - take it in for a free check at your local auto store. They can measure the draw.

Couldn't tell exactly, but I'm thinking starters for 302's, 351, etc are pretty much the same unit. I've never had a problem getting a starter. Typically, new / re-manufactured run about $50.
Glad to see your back on the site! If all else fails, you might try one of those mini-high torque starters. The smaller size would give you more air space and hopefully less heat from the headers. Let us know how it goes.

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony

Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

[Image: 20180127_082009.jpg]

upload a photo on internet

yOU MENTIONED THAT YOU INSTALLED A NEW CABLE. Did you use a heavy guage wire? Many times the heat espeacialy with headers is not compatible with light wire. The wire builds up to much resistents when hot and won't carry enough juice.
Don't overlook the grounds. The powered side is only 1/2 the equation.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

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Take the starter off and have it tested. If it's O.K. We will all go from there. Helps trying a dozen different things. Like:
Starter windings breaking down
Weak solenoid
Advanced timing
Main bearing wear
Connecting rod wear
But ya gotta start somewhere and this is 2 bolts and free at most auto shops.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
X2 on the potential (over)advanced timing.

And, yes, grounds absolutely. I've had that one bite me once.

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
Glad u r back! I had the same problem and fixed it with a mini starter from a 2001 v6 mustang. I can drive for hours and it'll crank right up. Did a write up on here and even have a vid on youtube if interested. Good luck!
Don't listen to those Chevy guys... gheeszzz Smile

Does it not crank at all or is it really slow or ? What is your initial timing set to?

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
Now you know VIP Members are not supposed to use the Ch### word on this sight.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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