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Picture of 72 Engine bay
#1
Hey Everyone,

Does anyone have a picture of their 72 engine bay with engine installed? Looking for a close to a stock set-up. I need a go-by of where things are located like the heater core feed valve, vac control valve assembly etc...Really would like to see where these items are located in the hoses and or manifold. I also want to see where the coil is mounted. The guy I bought the car from had what I think was an Accel coil and its huge. Its square and he mounted it on the pass. apron. I want to buy a new one and mount it in the proper location.

An unrelated question: What do I gain performance wise by installing a non stock hi performance coil like Pertronix OE canister style. What were the stock ones rated at? The one I was looking at was 45,000 volts. Would this be an improvement. I have a Mallory electronic distributor.

Thanks
D. Rolls

Chasing Rust
  Reply
#2
Well mine is a 72 I've tried to make it look as factory as I can get away with.

I can snap off some photos.


A stock coil is 20-30,000 volts.

If your ignition system is in good shape installing a hotter coil will not do anything.

The hotter coil will burn out stock carbon filament ignition wires faster, it might wear out the tips of your plugs faster as well, but for the mileage most of us drive you will never notice or see this extra wear and tear.

A hotter coil will burn out points ignitions systems faster it can cause issues with radio noise or electrical issues if your wire harness is in poor condition.

A benefit usually is faster cold engine start ups.

Usually with a hotter coil you can run more spark plug gap, no real benefit if your ignition is working correctly to start.

If your ignition system is in marginal condition, or you have weak spark for some reason then installing a hotter coil will make your engine run better, but it's usually masking some underlying issue.

All that said it's very hard today to find a good quality regular ignition coil. Everything on the market is high powered now except for the reproduction made in china concourse yellow top coil, which has a bad reputation I used it for 3 years with no problems.
There is Also American standard ignition coils, these are not made in America, again some people have issues with them.

When I looked around for a regular lower voltage name brand coil there was nothing.
I bought an accel coil that turned out to be a high voltage coil even though it didn't say it on the box.

I have the petronix coil as well as a Msd coil.

I have run all 4 different coil and there is no difference. When I switched to electronic ignition I had to be careful to make sure the new coil had the correct ohm rating.

I found almost any modern coil meets the correct ohms. I settled on using the yellow accel coil, just because, no real reason. I had been using the reproduction yellow top coil with no issues.

After installing the accel coil I saw no change in the way the car ran at all, I just felt safer with a bran-name coil under the hood.

I did have issues in the past with Msd coils, I found they started to leak the cooling oil inside after a while. This happened 2 times with the oil filled Msd coils.

In this day and age your pretty much stuck with high voltage coils. Any of them are fine.

If your using a petronix then stick with a petronix coil as well if it makes you feel better.

Stay away from all the crap aftermarket ignition wires, spiral core, duel core, 8mm,9mm,10mm all garbage, just get regular old ford oem or reproduction carbon filament wires and your good to go.

Getting back to it, installing a high voltage coil if your ignition is in good shape will give you zero benefits, but at the same time you really have no good options for running a lower voltage coil if you wanted to.

I'll get some photos of my 72 engine bay.
  Reply
#3
I remember seeing a great engine shot of 72sprintsportsroof's car; it may have been one of the eBay pictures he had. His car is unmolested and hopefully he will see this thread and post it up.



Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony

Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06


[Image: 20180127_082009.jpg]

upload a photo on internet




  Reply
#4
[Image: p2120027.jpeg]

[Image: p2120028.jpeg]
  Reply
#5
72HCODE;23439 Wrote:Well mine is a 72 I've tried to make it look as factory as I can get away with.

I can snap off some photos.


A stock coil is 20-30,000 volts.

If your ignition system is in good shape installing a hotter coil will not do anything.

The hotter coil will burn out stock carbon filament ignition wires faster, it might wear out the tips of your plugs faster as well, but for the mileage most of us drive you will never notice or see this extra wear and tear.

A hotter coil will burn out points ignitions systems faster it can cause issues with radio noise or electrical issues if your wire harness is in poor condition.

A benefit usually is faster cold engine start ups.

Usually with a hotter coil you can run more spark plug gap, no real benefit if your ignition is working correctly to start.

If your ignition system is in marginal condition, or you have weak spark for some reason then installing a hotter coil will make your engine run better, but it's usually masking some underlying issue.

All that said it's very hard today to find a good quality regular ignition coil. Everything on the market is high powered now except for the reproduction made in china concourse yellow top coil, which has a bad reputation I used it for 3 years with no problems.
There is Also American standard ignition coils, these are not made in America, again some people have issues with them.

When I looked around for a regular lower voltage name brand coil there was nothing.
I bought an accel coil that turned out to be a high voltage coil even though it didn't say it on the box.

I have the petronix coil as well as a Msd coil.

I have run all 4 different coil and there is no difference. When I switched to electronic ignition I had to be careful to make sure the new coil had the correct ohm rating.

I found almost any modern coil meets the correct ohms. I settled on using the yellow accel coil, just because, no real reason. I had been using the reproduction yellow top coil with no issues.

After installing the accel coil I saw no change in the way the car ran at all, I just felt safer with a bran-name coil under the hood.

I did have issues in the past with Msd coils, I found they started to leak the cooling oil inside after a while. This happened 2 times with the oil filled Msd coils.

In this day and age your pretty much stuck with high voltage coils. Any of them are fine.

If your using a petronix then stick with a petronix coil as well if it makes you feel better.

Stay away from all the crap aftermarket ignition wires, spiral core, duel core, 8mm,9mm,10mm all garbage, just get regular old ford oem or reproduction carbon filament wires and your good to go.

Getting back to it, installing a high voltage coil if your ignition is in good shape will give you zero benefits, but at the same time you really have no good options for running a lower voltage coil if you wanted to.

I'll get some photos of my 72 engine bay.

Thanks for the info. Sounds like I am armed with info...looking forward to checking out your bay pics.
don29163;23458 Wrote:[Image: p2120027.jpeg]

[Image: p2120028.jpeg]

Thanks for the pics

Chasing Rust
  Reply
#6
^that is original however its a non-A/C car.

it will be hard to see on mine due to the shock tower monti-carlo bars. but

72 was the only year for the Chrome Lid on the air cleaner

[Image: DSCN0305.jpg]

[Image: 100_1275.jpg]

[Image: DSCN0309.jpg]
[Image: DSCN0308.jpg]
[Image: DSCN0307.jpg]
[Image: DSCN0306.jpg]
[Image: DSCN0312.jpg]

you can just see the heater control valve here
[Image: DSCN0311.jpg]
----

I put a little arrow here
[Image: heater.jpg]

according to the ford assembly manual that is the port to put the heater control valve on.

coming from the firewall out of the heater core, (looking back from the front of the car) the left port of the heater core is continuous.
one hose from the core to the left side port of the water pump.

the right port, Attach the Molded S hose to the heater core, next the the heater control valve,
then the heater hose with the molded L at one end connects to the heater control valve, and the L side connects to the top of the
water pump port.

Both heater hose lines are suppose to run between the stock intake and the passenger valve cover. this is impossible with an aftermarket intake
and carb you will not have enough room, the coil is suppose to be on the passenger side. again this is impossible when using an aftermarket intake, and carb. the fuel line would of originally come up the drivers side around the back of the compressor, this is impossible with an aftermarket carb.

my engine bay is not original at all, it was the best i could do given the parts and configuration.





  Reply
#7
U Da Man! nice that surely was not a NY car or a lot of time anf effort went into it.
  Reply
#8
50,000$ and 6 years of my life, it still needs floors, trunk, doors, truck floor, drop downs, seat pans, paint,etc....


[Image: fuuuuuuuuuuuuuu.gif]

  Reply
#9
I know what you mean. I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel.
  Reply
#10
wow!! that quality of work is outstanding.i just pulled my cleveland and fmx and am going to restore the engine compartment in my 72 coupe. going to use these photo's as a guide.thanks for posting them.
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