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Buying a 7173
#1
My 65 is leaving tomorrow and I am ready to buy a 7173. Can you folks tell me what to look out for in these vehicles? I am not going to buy a purist car but a good daily driver.

Thanks
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#2
Biggest thing is rust, from what I've been reading. Check under the hood, up close to the windshield. Water collects there, and the drainage points are notorious for geting plugged up and not working well. Also check inside the trunck and look really hard at the inside of the fender wells to look for signs of poor repairs.

Other than that, look for the typical engine & drive train issues.
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#3
And also check frame rails and torque boxes for rust.
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#4
Open the glove box and shine a light at the cowl to observe for rust.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
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#5
And if you can get a peek at the floor pans somehow, they are prone to bad rust problems also.

Other than that, it's up to you. You're looking for a daily driver? If you come across something interesting, get as much info about it as you can, and snap a few pics and post them here - we might be able to provide some more advice. Good luck with your search!

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#6
Pour a gallon of water in to the cowl openings, if it comes out to the inside of the passenger side , they are done.

Ask me how I know

"If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower."

Mark Donohue (*1937 †1975)
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#7
You looking for a coupe,,Mach 1/fastback,,or a convertible?...Yup check for rust...+1 to what other said about checking the cowl,..{good idea Don on checking threw the glove box",..And one other spot to check is rear trunk..Seals likes to give out and leak on the fastbacks and rust..And on the back window...The corner of the back window water likes to pool up..And you are not too far from my area and desert parts of Oregon and Wa...I would keep you're eyes peeled for cars in the desert parts....Stay away from the coast stangs if you can..Hehehe

Not saying they don't have any nice stangs out that way..But less chances of rust issues.
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#8
rust rust rust:

check:
front frame rail tops that are hidden by the upper suspension arms, the area between the shock tower supports.

this area
[Image: DSC06802.jpg]

[Image: DSC06803.jpg]

you see any holes in that frame rail, run away, fast.

the bottom of the shock tower:
[Image: DSC06709.jpg]
if it looks soft or you see cracks, abort mission.

same car fixed
[Image: DSC07137.jpg]
[Image: 100_1294.jpg]
cowl:
the water test is a good start but inconclusive. basically pour water down the drains under the front window (2 grills) and see if any water enters the car.

the best is having the car inside a dark garage. Get inside the car, open the glove box and have somebody outside the car shine a light through the cowl with the hood open.
however things can be hidden.

here a cowl has been covered and pouring the water showed no leak.
[Image: DSC07062.jpg]

cover up revealed
[Image: DSC07066.jpg]

same car fixed
[Image: DSC07088.jpg]

floor rust you expect, new floors are nothing exciting. the problem is when the rockers rott out.
look for rust on the Body at the corner of the B piller and the rocker panel.

the rear window leaks, they leaked bran-new, expect rust on the window ledge or inside the car on the C pillers if you have a Coupe or fastback.
the taillight panel doesn't drain well and it will rust and rot out around the taillights. the rubber gasket holds water against the untreated metal panel.

quarters are usually rusted out on the bottom or around the wheel well lip.

trunk floors are usually rotted out as well, trunk inner drop downs go along with lower quarter panel patches.

The seat pan mounts inside the car may be gone as well, the water coming in from the torque boxes or rusted out front floors allows water to pool under the seat pans and rott them away also.

even a REALLY nice car unless it has had a total ground up resto on it will have pretty nasty rust out somewhere.

personally if you see front rail rust, cowl rust, or rusted rockers, walk away find a better car, don't even make an offer unless its a 500$ parts car.


now getting into mechanical is on top of the rust. how original the car is. is it a matching number or a very rare car? even a very rare car may not be worth saving. Say you have a 1 of 1 plain jane Coupe with a Inline 6, standard interior and no options, it will never be worth anything unless it belonged to somebody famous and you could prove it.

matching numbers is hard to prove because they only really stamped the engine block on our cars, the trans usually didn't have a vin on it but later on in 72 and 73 they did start stamping the trans on the higher end models.

you need to figure out what options you want also.
Do not get into a car and assume you can add things later it will ruin your dreams.
things like Factory competition suspension are important features.
power front disc brakes is a must as well, with drums in the back.

personally i would rather have a well optioned 302 or 351 V2 with A/C then a no optioned V4 Q or R or M code with no A/C. all the little gizmos in the car make driving it so much nicer.

you want to make a list of what options you can not live without then only look at those cars as projects. it will help you narrow the search.

then you want to figure out your level of skill and if the car is drivable or not.

as for motor it is up to you, the Inline 6s are cool and rare and get really good MPG but are not worth a lot, which can be a bonus also.
the 302 and 351 are both good the 351 is a little more of a problem child depending on the build combo of parts. the 302 is easy to get parts for.

then you have the option of a big block 351( 460 engine.) the 351 engine was a small block and a big block. the 460 cars are expensive as people want more HP for the Butt Dyno.

an original unmolested car with small rust issues and the combo of options you want is the best choice over a car that was built sinking all the money into the engine. the worst would be a zero optioned drum brake super cobra jet. that would only be at home on a drag track going 1/4 mile at a time.
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#9
Like others said, try and get a car as rust free as possible. Since your just looking for a daily driver you probably wouldn't want to pay the asking price for one that truly is rust free. When looking for mine I responded to a couple of adds where the sellers said they were rust free, I quickly learned that to many sellers that means bondo has been used to fill all the rust holes and rust you can't see without bending over doesn't count. Opening the hood to look for rust also doesn't count. What caught my eye about the seller I bought the car from is he posted pictures of the few areas where the car did have rust although you wouldn't have been able to see those areas unless you really spent some time looking for them. Have fun looking, hope you find one soon and post up some pics.

Jim

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
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#10
First of all... Great post by 72HCode... I've only owned two 73 coupes. The first was a nice car, 302, c4 auto and no options. I kept it for a while cleaned it up and sold it for a small profit. Owning that car thought me a few lessons. First was to buy a good running car that you can do upgrades to on the weekends. I'm not a mechanic and don't have a lot of free time on my hands. The other lesson was if you're going to be driving this car on a regular basis, get a car with some options, working AC is really nice. Believe me, there a lots of good cars out there, just be patient and wait for a car that suits you and what you want in the car. My second 73 coupe does have a 351C, 4 speed, AC, power windows and in the big scheme of things it really wasn't that much more than my first car. I was patient and waited until I found exactly what I was looking for. Good luck in your search... I keep an eye on this site.

http://www.mustangclassifieds.com/browse...ngs-3.html

[Image: 1_24_09_13_4_29_06.png]
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