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Just Another Excuse
#1
While trying to track down the car's poor performance we replaced
the dizzy cap and rotor. When #5 wire was pulled from the cap there
was green corrosion on the terminal. Horror of horrors!
So we replaced all the wiring Big Grin

mike

   

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#2
Sounds like a good Excuse to me Big Grin

[Image: 2zem9nk.jpg]
Iyman
1972 Mustang convertible run_horse  
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#3
imusa76;128281 Wrote:Sounds like a good Excuse to me Big Grin

+1
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#4
You know I hear where there's corrosion on the terminals like that it means you need a new Exhaust System Smile

Those look like they'll be nice cables when they're all put together! Do you guys recommend doing the self-assembly cables over the pre-made ones? Or is that purely personal preference?

2013 Ford Focus SE Flex Fuel 5spd - Daily Driver
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#5
MechEng;128538 Wrote:You know I hear where there's corrosion on the terminals like that it means you need a new Exhaust System Smile

Those look like they'll be nice cables when they're all put together! Do you guys recommend doing the self-assembly cables over the pre-made ones? Or is that purely personal preference?

Already got the exhaust system and it is the other way around.
We are having problems tuning the engine with the new exhaust.
Started by replacing the rotor and cap. That is when the corrosion
was discovered. We used self made wiring because of the engine
set up, did not want to obscure the valve covers so we re-routed
the plug wires. Hence the self made, a conventional set would not
fit.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#6
Update on the engine problems and why I needed a new distributor.
So we removed the cap and twisted the rotor back, it did not return
completely. No, or minimal, mechanical advance. One of the springs
is broken we think. Thought about one of those electronic jobs like
the Pertronix since we have a Pertronix Ignitor and coil now. But opted
for a rebuilt one with points. The points are coming out of course.
Save those in a bag for the day when an EMP renders electronic systems
useless, at least Our cars will still work my mechanic says.
He also said if you pull the distributor and the rod that drives the oil
pump comes with it, you may other have issues to deal with.
The dizzy cost 50 bucks with a core charge of $80, NPD will refund the
$80 assuming they determine the core is rebuildable.

mike

   

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#7
In a 351 C the oil pump is spun by the distributor. There is no "shaft" you can actually put a socket on it from the distributor hole and prime the motor with oil. It's sealed assemblies.

Yea, Though I cruise through the valley of the Shadow of Rice, I will fear no Turbo, For Thine Torque art with me. Thy forged rods and crankshaft, they comfort me.

Thou preparest a strip before me in the presence of four cylinder enemies: thou anointest my heads with high octane; my quarter mile victories runneth over.

Surely Horsepower and RPM's shall follow me all the days of my life: and I will race on the streets and strips forever.
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#8
There is a "shaft" between the oil pump and the distributor. Thats what you see when you look down the distributor hole. The factory put a clip on it which keeps it from coming out with the distributor.
You may as well recurve it since you are that far into it.

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/...index.html

If you ever pull a distributor and the gear pin is sheared off you should 100% expect to replace the oil pump.

If you want to prime a new engine...
Don't use a socket to drive the oil pump. Use the correct $7 tool. Unless you like to try to fish out a socket that falls off inside the engine.
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#9
Stocktrader;133072 Wrote:There is a "shaft" between the oil pump and the distributor. Thats what you see when you look down the distributor hole. The factory put a clip on it which keeps it from coming out with the distributor.
You may as well recurve it since you are that far into it.

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/...index.html

If you ever pull a distributor and the gear pin is sheared off you should 100% expect to replace the oil pump.

If you want to prime a new engine...
Don't use a socket to drive the oil pump. Use the correct $7 tool. Unless you like to try to fish out a socket that falls off inside the engine.

The engine is rebuilt about 1 1/2 years ago with maybe 2500 miles
on it. The "shaft" did not pull out with the distributor. Installed a
rebuilt one from NPD. When we replaced the points with a Pertronix
Ignitor I kept telling myself not to let the little screws fall into the
distributor.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#10
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/mel-pt12 They bumped the price up a bit.
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