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Major structural/rust issues - advice sought
#1
Howdy all. Quick story. Purchased 71 Mustang faux Mach 1 (Sports roof, 6cyl vin), off of Ebay several years ago. Lots of new parts, decent price, needed a paint job and one smaller dent repaired. Fast forward to now, and the hotrod shop suggest that it get stripped, and media blasted to know the full story underneath. Well.....it's completely shot underneath almost everything doors forward. It's been brazed together, filled with Styrofoam, bondo'd over, and is actually scary to look at.

So, here is the deal on advice. I've attached pics for your review. I cannot possibly afford the $20k+ estimate for metal repair and paint. Most of the parts to include the engine and trans are all new, TCC kit, exhaust, rear end, brakes, etc, etc. What are my options? Is there such a thing as a "rust free" shell for sale? Anyone sell repair parts for this car? Let me know....part it out, or keep it and search. I have no repair skills, so it'll all be shop work.

[Image: Moostang066_zps5d492a66.jpg]

[Image: Moostang060_zps64023a32.jpg]

[Image: Moostang059_zps1ab32e7d.jpg]

[Image: Moostang055_zps2a63c58f.jpg]

[Image: Moostang049_zps2f7d8e31.jpg]

(Yep, that's STYROFOAM!!!!!!!!!!! ARGHHHHH)!!!!!!

[Image: Moostang046_zps73870bc5.jpg]

The car was a "10 footer", still had good comments...until the fenders came off, and the whole thing was soda blasted. Holy crap am I pissed!!!!!!!!!!! Tons of new mechanical parts, but the shell....wow....
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#2
Looks pretty grim from here. I'm thinking part it out.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#3
Buy a solid shell and transfer your investment into it. That's what I'm doing. Found a shell for $800 and made the needed repairs to it as I went. Been working out pretty well so far but I do all my own work.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#4
I have to agree with everyone above. Still seems better than what mister 4x4 started with but since you mention you don't have the skills to go that deep I would pull the driveline, interior, etc. Store it and find a shell. Fortunately the majority of these cars aren't as bad off as the 60's models seem to be so finding a pretty solid roller isn't hard. Our years aren't highly sought after either so that kind of keeps the prices down on the fixer uppers. In my area there are few on the classifieds for around 500 and up non running but seem to be complete.

if you are looking for "rust free" look around the Midwest and southern states far away from big bodies of water.

the cost to have a shop repair that shell would be expensive and who knows if they wouldn't do the same thing all over again.
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#5
Agreed - especially since you are in New Mexico. You have plenty of raw material to work with out here that will need absolutely no rust repair. A "simple" unbolt and bolt proceedure to have a perfect car.
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#6
I'd want more pictures but first off 20k means they are raking you over the coals.
First the fender and doors you can bolt on replace with better ones so those are not a big issue.

Issue one , did they seriously sand blast the top side of the fenders and body?
Because it looks like they utterly ruined the car. You cannot use silica oxide to sand blast the body it will cause massive pits like I see in the fender sheet metal and it warps the sheet metal.
You are suppose to use plastic bead or walnut for paint stripping and even then it is dangerous due to warpage.

You a suppose to use a sander to strip the finished side surface. With the pitting they caused on the fender, your looking at layers of high build primer plus a ton of bondo and hundreds of hours of sanding to get that metal to look straight again.

Just from the few pictures you show I would instantly be pissed off with the shop doing the work.

Second. The aprons in the pictures are not structural and can be easily replaced with new sheet metal that is reproduction. The only issue is the top aprons that connect the cowl to the engine bay aprons they don't make that and they have to be fabricated or from a donor car.

I see other issues but first I want inspection of the front frame rails underneath the shock towers. If the tops of the rails are gone or filled with foam or somehow covered up, I would stand back and not put another dime into the car part it and start with a better shell.
If the rails are ok then I would consider repair. Front end from window to front bumper is about 8-12k mostly it is labor the sheet metal is maybe 3000$

However that rust indicates much more hiding underneath. The torque boxes and cowl I'm betting will be rusted bad as well, and so on which might be where 20k is coming from. If the damage was just aprons it would be 6-8k.

I had/have the same issues with my car,,, where do you stop as far Repairs.

I could easily put another 50k into my car getting it to like new condition or spend 11k on one that was done and in very good shape.

If the car is family and was my fathers that is one thing if the car is just for fun, I would say cut your losses.

Here is what I went through on my car. The costs are a little fuzzy but I stopped at 12k for 6 months worth of work on the front end. That was in addition to another 10k in engine and suspension at the same time.

My front end was basically gone. Knowing what I know now I would of junked the car.

http://m1031.photobucket.com/albums/72hc...d%20rails/

I required, sectioned front frame rails. New shock towers and engine cradle from donor.
New rad support, 6 aprons repop. Cowl required fabrication(repo parts are now available) donor aprons for cowl engine bay connection. Strut rod cross member was salvaged and patched.

The donor parts required rust repair as well. It was like peeling a rotten onion and the core was bad too.

I should pointout the repairs to the front end could of kept going I made a comprises with my metal fabricator to stop at a certain point because the cost was just skyrocketing and even he was getting sick from it.
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#7
He would be better off to part it out and buy a completed car. He says he has no repair skills, which means a project like this is not acceptable. 20 K will buy a pretty nice car, that he can actually drive.
Heck, I will sell him my 72 Q code 4 speed for 13K and he can drive it home!
  Reply
#8
72HCODE;125457 Wrote:I'd want more pictures but first off 20k means they are raking you over the coals.
First the fender and doors you can bolt on replace with better ones so those are not a big issue.

Issue one , did they seriously sand blast the top side of the fenders and body?
Because it looks like they utterly ruined the car. You cannot use silica oxide to sand blast the body it will cause massive pits like I see in the fender sheet metal and it warps the sheet metal.
You are suppose to use plastic bead or walnut for paint stripping and even then it is dangerous due to warpage.

Howdy. The media used to strip it was soda (at least that's what I was told, can't be there as I'm away in the desert). In speaking with the shop guy, even he's telling me to part it out. The positive side is that all mechanical parts are new to slightly used, and everything is in good shape. So I should recover a decent bit of cash to fund another project. I looked at several used/updated/restomods. Prices for something done head to toe is $20-$30, and that is new upgrades motors, suspension, paint, etc, etc. Wish I wouldn't have already dropped $4500 into the project so far....but alas. I guess it'll be me and my air compressor when I get home, and some time on e-bay and this site posting items for sale.

You a suppose to use a sander to strip the finished side surface. With the pitting they caused on the fender, your looking at layers of high build primer plus a ton of bondo and hundreds of hours of sanding to get that metal to look straight again.

Just from the few pictures you show I would instantly be pissed off with the shop doing the work.

Second. The aprons in the pictures are not structural and can be easily replaced with new sheet metal that is reproduction. The only issue is the top aprons that connect the cowl to the engine bay aprons they don't make that and they have to be fabricated or from a donor car.

I see other issues but first I want inspection of the front frame rails underneath the shock towers. If the tops of the rails are gone or filled with foam or somehow covered up, I would stand back and not put another dime into the car part it and start with a better shell.
If the rails are ok then I would consider repair. Front end from window to front bumper is about 8-12k mostly it is labor the sheet metal is maybe 3000$

However that rust indicates much more hiding underneath. The torque boxes and cowl I'm betting will be rusted bad as well, and so on which might be where 20k is coming from. If the damage was just aprons it would be 6-8k.

I had/have the same issues with my car,,, where do you stop as far Repairs.

I could easily put another 50k into my car getting it to like new condition or spend 11k on one that was done and in very good shape.

If the car is family and was my fathers that is one thing if the car is just for fun, I would say cut your losses.

Here is what I went through on my car. The costs are a little fuzzy but I stopped at 12k for 6 months worth of work on the front end. That was in addition to another 10k in engine and suspension at the same time.

My front end was basically gone. Knowing what I know now I would of junked the car.

http://m1031.photobucket.com/albums/72hc...d%20rails/

I required, sectioned front frame rails. New shock towers and engine cradle from donor.
New rad support, 6 aprons repop. Cowl required fabrication(repo parts are now available) donor aprons for cowl engine bay connection. Strut rod cross member was salvaged and patched.

The donor parts required rust repair as well. It was like peeling a rotten onion and the core was bad too.

I should pointout the repairs to the front end could of kept going I made a comprises with my metal fabricator to stop at a certain point because the cost was just skyrocketing and even he was getting sick from it.
  Reply
#9
I'm in a similar boat myself, picked up a '73, but it was deep in the snow and I couldn't get under it.

see local thread here:
http://www.tcstangs.com/forum/showthread...work-to-do


I'm not afraid of doing a little welding, but structure I may need a little help with.

I was wondering about the interchangeability of our years, as in, would this work :
http://www.cjponyparts.com/full-shock-to.../p/M3631R/
  Reply
#10
dviskoe,

I would be concerned as to the structural integrity of the whole (convertible) car. -And that all ties to safety.

As for interchangability of sheetmetal or structural parts, Id check with Don at Ohio Mustang Supply (OMS).

He'd know what will or won't work and know how to modify similar parts (floors) to fit.

Ray

1971 Boss 351  
1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 
1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 
1973 Mach 1 (parts car)
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