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Laurel mountain mustang subframe connectors
#1
Hey guys. Just wondering if anyone has used the LMM subframe connectors?? I did a search on here and found alot of info, but nothing from anyone that has used them first hand. Looks like i might be out that way this week and thought i might be able to pick up a set and not have to worry about shipping those big things. Any input or first hand experience with these would be great. Thanks

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#2
No experience with those. I used Tinman which were easy to install and didn't require cutting the floorpan or any modifications to the floorpan. Cost a little more but an excellent part. On page 2 if you want to see pics.
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-bojo-s-73-project

-jbojo

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#3
I have a set of Global West sub frame connectors on mine - love 'em. Easy to install, tuck up about as close to the floor pan as you can get.

I'm actually using them as jacking points right now with the rear axle off the floor while I finish up my fuel pump stuff.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#4
Thanks Guys. I did end up getting a set from LMM. They are pretty good quality. I was able to get one side installed last night. Sorry no pics. They hug the floor pretty good, have a couple gaps here and there but nothing major. Seem like they will really stiffen up the chasis. I welded mine on where ever i could get weld. The front of them slide into the front frame. I cut the back of the frame rail open and slid the connector inside about 5-6 inches and then welded it all around. Seems to hold pretty good. For added strength you could always drill a hole through the frame and the connector and sandwich it all together also. But i think i have plenty of weld on it. I will try to get some pics of the other side when i install it this weekend. A little touch up grinding and paint and we will be ready for the 408!!!!

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#5
Connectors are a good modification. My car feels much tighter with them

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#6
turtle5353;124810 Wrote:Thanks Guys. I did end up getting a set from LMM. They are pretty good quality. I was able to get one side installed last night. Sorry no pics. They hug the floor pretty good, have a couple gaps here and there but nothing major. Seem like they will really stiffen up the chasis. I welded mine on where ever i could get weld. The front of them slide into the front frame. I cut the back of the frame rail open and slid the connector inside about 5-6 inches and then welded it all around. Seems to hold pretty good. For added strength you could always drill a hole through the frame and the connector and sandwich it all together also. But i think i have plenty of weld on it. I will try to get some pics of the other side when i install it this weekend. A little touch up grinding and paint and we will be ready for the 408!!!!
Look forward to the pics
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#7
Can i ask what you did to make sure the car was sitting straight before you started welding? Global West told me not to put the car on a chassis lift. It should be sitting on the tires, which is possible to find, just not as common. What did you guys do?
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#8
What I planned for when I install mine, is to put the front wheels up on ramps, and then put jack stands under the rear axle. That way, the car's weight is still on the suspension.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.
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#9
I have a set of blocks I put under all 4 tires to work under the car. Or like Totalled said Ramps and jackstands.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
  Reply
#10
Well guys I did manage to get the subframe connectors in. I didn't get them all ground, seam sealed and painted though. Ran out of time. I'm pretty happy how they fit. Seem like they will do wonders for stiffening the chassis. I got a couple pics of them but its kinda hard when the car is only a foot off the ground. Really sucks welding like that. I will get some more, better pics when I get them finished up. Hopefully early this week. To get the car sitting even on the suspension I just jack up each corner and place a cement block under each wheel.

[Image: xy5hz.jpg]
[Image: f3expj.jpg]
[Image: 2vmasef.jpg]
[Image: ephzxg.jpg]

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
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