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Headlining installation
#1
Hi guys,
any tips to install headlinging to a fastback mach 1 ?
It should be done right once started.
especially interesting is how the fabrics is atached on the sides.

Should the fabrics be installed first and then the metal lists meaning that the lists are not used to tighten the fabrics, just to give a finishing touch ?
Any video available in the net for mach 1 headliner installation ?
Your comments are appreciated !
  Reply
#2
You MUST remove the windsheild and back glass. Otherwise you will never get it tight. Be sure to put all screws back in place before starting to install the new one so you don't have to guess where they go (stretch it tight and touch the fabric with a razor knike in an X) those will also help hold it tight. Takes 4-6 hours.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
  Reply
#3
yup the windows have to come out, rear and front you also need to remove the quarter windows if you have fixed widows that do not roll down.

you also need to repair damage rust holes and repaint if necessary.

the bows are important and i hope when they were removed somebody noted the installation order, and the holes for bows needed to be marked as well so things line up correctly.

bows go into the fabric then into the roof he ends and sides will dangle down.

i started from the front center, i used a laundry clip to start to line up the material. i went around and stretched the material into general position using like 50 laundry clips. move to the back window and repeat then i started to work on the sides again using clips until you get to the quarter windows.

the sides behind the quarter window and sill area go onto these large jagged teeth. so you have pretty much one shot or two before you are committed to how the headliner sits. the teeth tear into the material so more then once and you risk weakening the material, go to stretch it again and it may rip all the way across. once those teeth are committed, do a final check.

now you want to trim the material in the window areas. you want a 1/2-1/4" overlap around the window ledge, you can't use the entire ledge because if you did water would get behind the window seal and pool above the headliner then drip down and cause all kinds of damage.

now you get the contact cement ready. I started with the front window. i started to undo the clips from the center.

you brush it onto to the window ledge, and the material i worked a small area at a time. i let it get tacky and then commit to headliner placement, stretch it and then put the clips back,,, move to the next area and repeat, remove clips, brush glue, stretch back commit, and re clip.

i worked the front, then the back. then the sides. It took me hours and it took me over a week, because i would work one window opening, then it was like 2-3 hours of checking and rechecking working slow. then i would let it dry and the next night start again.

after 2 days i would release the clip and note if i needed to re-glue an area which happened more then once. one the entire thing is glued up, and you did your best to not have it wrinkled i went back and hit it first with a 1500 watt hair drier. to release stress in areas.

when a more stubborn wrinkle would show itself i used a heat gun on low and it was nerve wracking. after a few months the headliner smoothed itself out but i had it pretty good to start.

with the headliner now 100% installed i went around and double checked my cut backs in the window seal ledge make final cuts.

then the real fun started, installing the new chrome trim clips, and getting the sealant and glass ready for re-installation. the whole thing went on for about 6 months while i was working on the rest of the car and interior.

if my headliner was damaged again i think it would be justifiable homicide.

now there are upholstery shops that deal with this, you bring the car and material to them. they call up a glass installer, that comes in and removes the glass, hopefully nothing breaks, the glass guy is responsible for removing and installing the glass and the leak guarantee
the glass guy will do the work inside the upholstery shop.

then the upholstery shop will call you and tell you how much damage there is to the window ledge as far as rust. they may be able to repair it or they will tell you you need body work and they may recommend a local shop for the job that is close by.

once the ledge is 100% then they will install the headliner and guarantee it.

then the glass guy comes back and installs the same or new glass with seals.

the problem is our cars are a real pain to glaze properly and there is a foam seal that must go on the back window that helps the rubber seal become water tighter.
so you have to do research and talk to the glass guy.

for the rear window it goes window ledge, headliner with 1/2" cut back, over lap the headliner with ledge painted sheet metal with Closed cell Foam Tape 1/4"-1/2" thick and 1" wide. next rubber seal mounted on window, with caulk, then window installed with dry rubber seal into ledge making sure it overlaps the foam, then you fill the entire void with Caulk and install the chrome trim. it can be 1 week or 2 weeks worth of work worst case scenario, if they pop the window out and the ledge is in great shape it can be about 3-4 days of work but you have to not drive the car for about 3-4 days to let the glues all dry and not pop seals with body flexing.

the front window is basically Ribbon caulk and sealant caulk.

the side windows have the roof belt rubber seal.

oh that is right the roof belt line chrome trim and the rain gutters have to come out as well. then those need to be resealed.

if you want to do it yourself you have to prepare materials for the sides and front and back of the car they will need different installation materials and be checked for different damage.

if you cheap out and just try to shove the headliner behind the glass the entire thing will be wrinkled and eventually start to fall down and dangle.

i did mine about 8 years ago now. just installing the rear window made me never want to do it again, it was hell. and i had rust holes all along the sides.

another thing i forgot,,, check you have the roof insulation and it is in good shape. DO NOT install the headliner without the roof insulation. first it will sound like a steel drum playing over your head every time you drive, and on a hot day that thing will cook your head.
  Reply
#4
Here you go, I just did mine: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-insta...=headliner

Check out the comments with some of my notes.

I used the spray headliner adhesive (on both the cloth and the ledge) and it worked awesome, I let it tack up then stretched the headliner over the ledge and clipped it in place. The nice thing about the spray headliner adhesive is that once I got the whole thing installed, I could re-stretch in places if I had to because the adhesive has a 24 hour dry time. Start to finish it took me about 4 hours.

I still have to hit it with the hair dryer, but there are no wrinkles in mine. Just some creases that will come out with the hair dryer.

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
  Reply
#5
72HCODE;121055 Wrote:yup the windows have to come out, rear and front you also need to remove the quarter windows if you have fixed widows that do not roll down.

you also need to repair damage rust holes and repaint if necessary.

the bows are important and i hope when they were removed somebody noted the installation order, and the holes for bows needed to be marked as well so things line up correctly.

bows go into the fabric then into the roof he ends and sides will dangle down.

i started from the front center, i used a laundry clip to start to line up the material. i went around and stretched the material into general position using like 50 laundry clips. move to the back window and repeat then i started to work on the sides again using clips until you get to the quarter windows.

the sides behind the quarter window and sill area go onto these large jagged teeth. so you have pretty much one shot or two before you are committed to how the headliner sits. the teeth tear into the material so more then once and you risk weakening the material, go to stretch it again and it may rip all the way across. once those teeth are committed, do a final check.

now you want to trim the material in the window areas. you want a 1/2-1/4" overlap around the window ledge, you can't use the entire ledge because if you did water would get behind the window seal and pool above the headliner then drip down and cause all kinds of damage.

now you get the contact cement ready. I started with the front window. i started to undo the clips from the center.

you brush it onto to the window ledge, and the material i worked a small area at a time. i let it get tacky and then commit to headliner placement, stretch it and then put the clips back,,, move to the next area and repeat, remove clips, brush glue, stretch back commit, and re clip.

i worked the front, then the back. then the sides. It took me hours and it took me over a week, because i would work one window opening, then it was like 2-3 hours of checking and rechecking working slow. then i would let it dry and the next night start again.

after 2 days i would release the clip and note if i needed to re-glue an area which happened more then once. one the entire thing is glued up, and you did your best to not have it wrinkled i went back and hit it first with a 1500 watt hair drier. to release stress in areas.

when a more stubborn wrinkle would show itself i used a heat gun on low and it was nerve wracking. after a few months the headliner smoothed itself out but i had it pretty good to start.

with the headliner now 100% installed i went around and double checked my cut backs in the window seal ledge make final cuts.

then the real fun started, installing the new chrome trim clips, and getting the sealant and glass ready for re-installation. the whole thing went on for about 6 months while i was working on the rest of the car and interior.

if my headliner was damaged again i think it would be justifiable homicide.

now there are upholstery shops that deal with this, you bring the car and material to them. they call up a glass installer, that comes in and removes the glass, hopefully nothing breaks, the glass guy is responsible for removing and installing the glass and the leak guarantee
the glass guy will do the work inside the upholstery shop.

then the upholstery shop will call you and tell you how much damage there is to the window ledge as far as rust. they may be able to repair it or they will tell you you need body work and they may recommend a local shop for the job that is close by.

once the ledge is 100% then they will install the headliner and guarantee it.

then the glass guy comes back and installs the same or new glass with seals.

the problem is our cars are a real pain to glaze properly and there is a foam seal that must go on the back window that helps the rubber seal become water tighter.
so you have to do research and talk to the glass guy.

for the rear window it goes window ledge, headliner with 1/2" cut back, over lap the headliner with ledge painted sheet metal with Closed cell Foam Tape 1/4"-1/2" thick and 1" wide. next rubber seal mounted on window, with caulk, then window installed with dry rubber seal into ledge making sure it overlaps the foam, then you fill the entire void with Caulk and install the chrome trim. it can be 1 week or 2 weeks worth of work worst case scenario, if they pop the window out and the ledge is in great shape it can be about 3-4 days of work but you have to not drive the car for about 3-4 days to let the glues all dry and not pop seals with body flexing.

the front window is basically Ribbon caulk and sealant caulk.

the side windows have the roof belt rubber seal.

oh that is right the roof belt line chrome trim and the rain gutters have to come out as well. then those need to be resealed.

if you want to do it yourself you have to prepare materials for the sides and front and back of the car they will need different installation materials and be checked for different damage.

if you cheap out and just try to shove the headliner behind the glass the entire thing will be wrinkled and eventually start to fall down and dangle.

i did mine about 8 years ago now. just installing the rear window made me never want to do it again, it was hell. and i had rust holes all along the sides.

another thing i forgot,,, check you have the roof insulation and it is in good shape. DO NOT install the headliner without the roof insulation. first it will sound like a steel drum playing over your head every time you drive, and on a hot day that thing will cook your head.

Thanks a lot of your advise. Great , detailed answer - I liked that very much.
I do have my car currently without windshield and rear window but the quarter windows are in place..... so I have o take them out ?.. and also the chrome lists....nooooooo - I installed them a month ago Sad

well... thats life Smile
  Reply
#6
you can get away removing the lower part of the rain roof rail where the belt line seal goes. the part that wraps around the roof can stay i left mine in place. but the quarter windows have to come out since you have to get behind them and the lower part of the drip rail to glue the headliner in place.

annoying trust me.... i've had to remove my quarter windows various times to fix things if i had roll downs it would of made life easier.

also if you do need to install the roof insulation. don't use the spray adhesive. a buddy of mine used a 3M product and over time the fiberglass peeled off the roof and fell on the headliner and started moving around.

better to use a caulking type glue and install it like a mirror on a sheetrock wall it will hold much better with big blobs and caulk lines. i used caulking on mine and knock on wood so far i don't have any issues.
  Reply
#7
72HCODE;121255 Wrote:also if you do need to install the roof insulation. don't use the spray adhesive. a buddy of mine used a 3M product and over time the fiberglass peeled off the roof and fell on the headliner and started moving around.

better to use a caulking type glue and install it like a mirror on a sheetrock wall it will hold much better with big blobs and caulk lines. i used caulking on mine and knock on wood so far i don't have any issues.

Aaaarrrgghhh...I used the spray adhesive on recommendation. Well, it is what it is! Hopefully no major issues...

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
  Reply
#8
pull on it and see if it separates from the sheet metal. don't tear the insulation just tug on it. if it comes off i just saved you a big headache later.
  Reply
#9
72HCODE;121255 Wrote:you can get away removing the lower part of the rain roof rail where the belt line seal goes. the part that wraps around the roof can stay i left mine in place. but the quarter windows have to come out since you have to get behind them and the lower part of the drip rail to glue the headliner in place.

annoying trust me.... i've had to remove my quarter windows various times to fix things if i had roll downs it would of made life easier.

also if you do need to install the roof insulation. don't use the spray adhesive. a buddy of mine used a 3M product and over time the fiberglass peeled off the roof and fell on the headliner and started moving around.

better to use a caulking type glue and install it like a mirror on a sheetrock wall it will hold much better with big blobs and caulk lines. i used caulking on mine and knock on wood so far i don't have any issues.

Hi Again,

the windshield and rear glass edges are now glued ( I use 3M black glue normally used for seals - seems to grip very well.

The next step -perhaps more challenging - are the sides. In mach 1 there is a very thin sheet metal edge when looking from inside. There is a slot less than 1/2 inch between this and the outer edge that is normally covered by the chrome list to house the weather strip.

The question is: Shall I try to stick the headlining into this slot ( which also huses the metal cover lisy over the side glasses or should I just pass this slot and glue the headlining at the outer side.


I wonder if you can grab the idea.... I ask this because it will be very hard to get the headlining into this tiny slot and keep the tension in the headlining .

You may wonder why I ask such a question - well I bought the car dismanteled and there was no headlining installed and even no traces where the old headlining was attached or glued on the sides so I simply do not know where it was glued before...
  Reply
#10
Higgins56;121586 Wrote:
72HCODE;121255 Wrote:you can get away removing the lower part of the rain roof rail where the belt line seal goes. the part that wraps around the roof can stay i left mine in place. but the quarter windows have to come out since you have to get behind them and the lower part of the drip rail to glue the headliner in place.

annoying trust me.... i've had to remove my quarter windows various times to fix things if i had roll downs it would of made life easier.

also if you do need to install the roof insulation. don't use the spray adhesive. a buddy of mine used a 3M product and over time the fiberglass peeled off the roof and fell on the headliner and started moving around.

better to use a caulking type glue and install it like a mirror on a sheetrock wall it will hold much better with big blobs and caulk lines. i used caulking on mine and knock on wood so far i don't have any issues.

Hi Again,

the windshield and rear glass edges are now glued ( I use 3M black glue normally used for seals - seems to grip very well.

The next step -perhaps more challenging - are the sides. In mach 1 there is a very thin sheet metal edge when looking from inside. There is a slot less than 1/2 inch between this and the outer edge that is normally covered by the chrome list to house the weather strip.

The question is: Shall I try to stick the headlining into this slot ( which also huses the metal cover lisy over the side glasses or should I just pass this slot and glue the headlining at the outer side.


I wonder if you can grab the idea.... I ask this because it will be very hard to get the headlining into this tiny slot and keep the tension in the headlining .

You may wonder why I ask such a question - well I bought the car dismanteled and there was no headlining installed and even no traces where the old headlining was attached or glued on the sides so I simply do not know where it was glued before...

False alarm !
I did the RH side above the side windows. When removing the chrome list to house the weather strip- the "slot" desappears as the chrome list actally makes the slot... so there remains only this thin sheet metal edge around which the headlining is easy to glue. 7 h done in three days for this. I guess 10 h will do to have the headlining in place.
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