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cowl vent drain
#1
Pretty much into a cowl vent repair "experiment", everything removed, wire brushed, vacuumed, and ready to start treating the good metal and repairing the bad. I cut what was left of the "hat" out and now have access to the drain in the fwd corner. I ran a sort of a bore brush into the hole after making a bend in the brush to get it started. It went in and out okay, but not all the way, only to the ring on the handle. Where is the opening on the other end? I want to make sure this drain is clear and open,. This is (was) an A/C car, so I only have the one drain to be concerned with I think.
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#2
No sir - BOTH cowl drains need to be clear and unobstructed. The high point of the cowl is in the middle, and liquid drains outward toward the fenders. The drains are exactly opposite of each other, on both passenger and driver side of the car.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#3
Mister 4x4;120375 Wrote:No sir - BOTH cowl drains need to be clear and unobstructed. The high point of the cowl is in the middle, and liquid drains outward toward the fenders. The drains are exactly opposite of each other, on both passenger and driver side of the car.
Yeah, thanks I see the other one now, and it looks clear. The A/C car has only one cowl vent on the right side, but two drains right? I have no rust issues on the driver's side floor or toe board. Where exactly does the water drain to, just inside the fender then to the ground? I just wanted to snake something in there to make sure it is clear.
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#4
Danno;120387 Wrote:Yeah, thanks I see the other one now, and it looks clear. The A/C car has only one cowl vent on the right side, but two drains right? I have no rust issues on the driver's side floor or toe board. Where exactly does the water drain to, just inside the fender then to the ground? I just wanted to snake something in there to make sure it is clear.

You are correct - pretty much just rolls out of the drain openings and down to ground inside the fenders. Make sure to put some kind of water resistant and slippery finish on the metal inside the cowl and along the drain path to prevent any surface rust from forming (by not allowing moisture to collect and sit on any of the surfaces).

Mine had both air hats open with fresh air vents... and both were rusted like crazy because of all the debris that had collected inside the cowl and clogged up the drains, allowing the moisture to collect and rust away the metal underneath. You might also consider getting some fine plastic mesh (like window screen or something similar) and attach to the underside of the cowl opening 'waffle' covers to keep the bigger stuff out of there (that's my plan when I get further along).

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#5
Mister 4x4;120444 Wrote:
Danno;120387 Wrote:Yeah, thanks I see the other one now, and it looks clear. The A/C car has only one cowl vent on the right side, but two drains right? I have no rust issues on the driver's side floor or toe board. Where exactly does the water drain to, just inside the fender then to the ground? I just wanted to snake something in there to make sure it is clear.

You are correct - pretty much just rolls out of the drain openings and down to ground inside the fenders. Make sure to put some kind of water resistant and slippery finish on the metal inside the cowl and along the drain path to prevent any surface rust from forming (by not allowing moisture to collect and sit on any of the surfaces).

Mine had both air hats open with fresh air vents... and both were rusted like crazy because of all the debris that had collected inside the cowl and clogged up the drains, allowing the moisture to collect and rust away the metal underneath. You might also consider getting some fine plastic mesh (like window screen or something similar) and attach to the underside of the cowl opening 'waffle' covers to keep the bigger stuff out of there (that's my plan when I get further along).
Thanks for the tips....How are you repairing yours? Are you totally removing the cowl area? I am going to attempt to repair mine from inside and thru the rh cowl opening. Mine is not as bad as some I have seen, and is cleaned up and ready for a repair attempt/exeperiment. I have hardly any rust on the psgr side. A couple small holes on the front floor, and some more in the back floor the largest being maybe 1" x 3" and that is it! I have the interior totally gutted so I got a good look at the condition of the floors. It is a west coast car so I was lucky in that respect.
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#6
Mine was a royal mess. In addition to the Facebook album link in my signature, go to this thread for more about how bad mine was when I began and how I fixed the things I've repaired so far. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-novem...ankenstang

To repair my cowl damage, I have a donor vehicle at a local junkyard - so far, I've harvested the front clip, taillight/quarter panel/trunk corners, and the cowl area. I made replacement pieces for the damaged areas of the cowl and patched them in. When the 'yard dawgs cut the front clip off, the went right through the cowl pieces (air hats) with a sawz-all, so when I got the rest of the cowl, I had to weld the patch pieces back together before I could install them onto the car. Had I know it was that bad under there, I would've had them cut differently to keep the cowl intact when I got the front clip.

[Image: 409174_334541673223424_1829890788_n.jpg]

[Image: 403241_346970995313825_1616221933_n.jpg]

[Image: 407262_350215711656020_21482197_n.jpg]

That was all before Dynacorn released the new cowl pieces for our vehicles. They're pricey, but had they been available I would've gladly used them to replace my entire cowl, and not just patched it back together.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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