the resistance wire starts from ignition switch plug on top of the steering column, green wire with red stripe, and then it is spliced, winds its way in the dash harness as a pink wire with strips on it, it says "do not cut resistance wire" on the covering, then it is spliced back into the green-red ignition wire that exits through the firewall, and is picked up on another plug still green-red and continues to the coil.
if your worried that the resistance wire is causing ignition issues, first check the voltage on the coil to body ground with the car running, with a volt meter.
if your around 12 good. you have to check it with a load on it.
if you want to run a bypass.
take the ignition switch from the top of the steering wheel and splice in a connector before the dash harness then run it out to the coil, that will give you 12 volts on switched ignition, however if you have a factory tach, this method will bypass the factory tach and make it useless
some people have an optional factory electric idle solenoid that was 12volts and so they either use that for switched 12volt or run that to an aftermarket choke.
another method is running a wire from the alternator. or you could run a tap from the optional switched 12volt from the fuse block and you put like a 20-30amp fuse on it.
I tried the first method once, and it didn't work out for me.
i did it like this
i spliced a bullet connector on the ignition switch and bypassed the resistance wire in the dash and ran a direct switched 12v tap to my petronix ignition module.
for me it didn't make a difference and after i tested my resistance wire i was getting like 12volts anyway so i returned it back to stock, and if i decided to run points then i wouldn't burn them up.