thread from the dead
I'll see if i can answer some of this: its been
8 years since i did this.
1) Is there a "better" method for a robust install than what is spelled out here and on the Mustang Monthly article?
Not that i ever saw, even new these windows would leak the design is horrible. the water really has no where to drain and it sits in the channel and then rotts things out. The idea is if you fill the channel with enough foam, rubber, caulk, then it will displace more water.
2) Since my car was taken down to the bare unibody for restoration I am unsure if I need the bright trim between the trunk and the window installed before the glass, or after the glass. I think it is after, but confirmation is appreciated.
The bright work is install Last, however the special clips that go on the studs in the channel must be installed before the glass and seals go in.
one error restorers make is they start with a rotted channel, and replace the sheet metal but forget to reinstall the special studs that clips sit on that holds the bright work to the frame. you can catch this later before the glass goes in and correct the problem but it involves drilling into fresh paint and installing studs with rivits or welding and then repainting the channel area.
but bright work last.
3) Is it best to use a 14 gage wire, or a nylon rope to roll the seal? (By Rolling I mean to pull the sealing lip to the inside.)
I used Nylon rope i got at CVS, it just has to fit in the channel for the rubber, the bottom of the window Just sits on the surface the sides and top of the seal is what holds it to the frame of the car. I was told not to put sealer on the bottom so if water did get in it could drain out. also it is pretty much impossible to get sealant down there any way.
i ran the rope like a U around the top and made sure when i lined up the window that the rope was visable inside the car at the lower corners of the glass then i pulled up evenly from the sides and up to the roof, with a helper Slapping the glass and holding pressure down, the window basically sucked into the car and seated down.
Foam tape(closed cell, so it does not hold water) goes on the ledge first, it overlaps with the headliner material and the painted window frame. the head liner should wrap around about 1/8" to 1/4" so the headliner sits about half way under the foam tape. the tape is needed to hold that rubber gasket seal tighter. So foam tape first get it all neat and sorted.
now i cannot remember if i taped the bottom edge, i need to find my old photos to see if i did or didn't, i might of left the bottom open for drainage.
foam tape, put the bright work clips in.
put the rubber gasket on the window, insert the rope into the rubber seal.
put glass on car line up. get helper who will push down on the glass carefully and flat slap the glass as needed to seat it, pressure the glass down and slap it as you pull the ropes the window will suck into the car and seat,, a couple more slaps.
confirm the foam tape didn't rip when the rubber seal went over and around it. now go back, lift the rubber seal on the edges of the glass and apply sealant under the rubber, clean the squeeze out as needed.
Fill the channel around the car frame and the rubber seal with a TON of sealant right up to near the top, make sure you leave some clearance for the brightwork.
carefully install the bright work. good chance you will damage it the aluminum is soft and you have to really push on it to get into the clips sometimes, the bright work tools are hit or miss they grab the clips and try to open them so you can push the bright work in.
now you can have a professional installer do the work and you provide them with materials and explain what you want.
the worst parts are the foam tape, because the glue on those is a One shot and you really want the foam tape to be continuous along the sides and top of the window you also want to keep the tape aligned on the inner edge so you have a good seal. then the sealant is a horrible messy job so you need to mask off the car to prevent paint damage.
4) When pulling the rope or wire, I assume you start from the bottom center of the glass and pull evenly to the bottom corners first, then work slowly up each side as even as possible.
5) Finally, I assume there is no rush to apply the caulk after seating the window and seal. Mine will not see weather for a while.
There is no rush once the window is in, doing the rubber to glass sealant is a good thing it will keep the glass from shifting with body twist. then later you can fill the channel with sealant. but do not start sealant then stop, if you start it then you need to finish it within the drying time.
Any other good advice?
Its not rocket science but it is not easy and even when you did a perfect job it can still leak. make sure you have a helper and explain exactly what is going to happen. slapping the glass is kind of dangerous you need a light touch but it still has to seat the glass down. i've known people do this and bust the glass, it happens.
Defroster glass you need to be a careful with the electrical connectors on the sides, make sure as you seat the window you keep them tucked into the car so visually keep an eye on them during install.
i converted from defroster glass to standard because my car did not come with a defroster system somebody thought they would upgrade to a defroster.
defrosters in the car I've only really needed it once, but i rolled the windows down and problem solved.
the wires for the defrost on the glass need to be checked before and after install so you didn't break any of the lines.
it is messy and tiring so work slow and if it takes time so be it.
my car it took me a couple of weekends, getting all the materials, then setup getting a helper and installing the glass took 10 minutes, but then it sat until i had the sealer and i went back in 2 stages, first sealant between rubber and glass then later filling the channel with sealant. use a tongue depressor to push the sealant into the channel. I used my finger BIG mistake i spent 5 years cleaning sealer i would randomly find off anything i touched.
good luck and remember you can always get a professional installer they may have better knowledge of sealants or they may use a Bonder instead of a sealer to really hold the glass on.