the great thing about replacing the sender on these cars is you don't even need to jack the car up. just drain the tank down as much as possible. pull the fuel line, catch all the remaining fuel that will come out. pop the ring with a flat head screw driver and a mallet, pull the ring out, pop the sender out, try not to swallow all the gas that will come out. Curse, clean up the mess, get some chewing gum for the taste of gas in your mouth, then take a new o ring seal, coat it in engine oil, or grease, make it stick to the tank, insert the sender, sock down into the tank, tank should be keyed. then put the ring on close it by hand make sure its aligned then pop it into place with a flat head and mallet, make sure it is seated.
now the fun part....
fill up a fuel bottle with 4-5 gallons of gas, pour it into the tank, Check for leaks, now look for leaks around the electrical connector, make sure its bone dry(I replaced my sender 3 times before i got one that didn't leak from the connector.)
now hook up electrical and fuel line. get in the car turn the key to acc and make sure your fuel gauge reads 1/4 tank. It won't
now go back to the top and and remove the sender. and bend the arm in the direction you think it needs to read correct fuel levels.
cue more cursing.
I never calibrated my fuel sender so when i'm around half tank, i'm about 6-8 gallons down. when the gauge reads 1/4 on mine i get nervous and fill up. even the oem senders needed to calibrated like that.
as far as getting one thats made with the correct bend in it, it can be hit or miss. I bought my senders 2 years apart... hopefully by now they are all correct, but double check.