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Grand coupes are the cheapest and least desirable . still as others mentioned, lots of good 1 year only parts there. The front bumper and mounts are probably the single most valuable item…depending on condition, $250-500. A perfect one would be $700…turn signals, wheelwell and other trim...

I have a new OEM chrome front hood lip. Problem is I am about to leave town for a week, and can’t deal with it right now. If you haven’t found one in a week, let me know…I am near Atlanta.

New valve covers..these are $100 Chinese cast aluminum. Ford 302. Best part, I had to buy GM grommets to fit the openings…took hours of driving to auto parts stores to find the right grommets… They sealed well, look good. Really hard to see them! 302 looks lost in a 71 engine bay...

Wow that’s a lot! Prayers for you and family!! It’s tough being a small business owner, true enthusiast will understand…..

If you have a 302, the VIN should be stamped on the top of the block, in the back, drivers side, facing up. Just behind intake. Look for a flat spot about 1.5x2 inches. Clean the paint and grime off and partial car vin is there….

On my 71, the kit came with an lower block off plate to RTV and screw in from underside. That left a bowl up top to capture water, which concerned me. I made a thin walled aluminum cap to cover it, sprayed it black to hide it, and RTV’d it to death… it’s easier on a 71, huge openings to cowl...

If you take the inner door panels off you can access the adjusters….there are forward backward, in out angle and tilt front back adjustments you can do. Tip, get a suction handle or two from harbor freight, put car in center of garage, close the problem door and adjust position with suction...

I bought one of those $175 Chinese 3 core radiators from Amazon. My car is AC car, so I got a 26”. It cools great. The only problem is the mount points don’t work with stock mount parts….if I cut and grind some tabs I can fix that. Otherwise all good..

Lift pad up about 4 inches and pull back in a Hard jarring yanking motion! For the seats, by far the easiest is to unbolt track from floor, then remove assembly.(2 vertical bolts front, 2 horizontal bolts rear) Then remove track from seat bottom if needed.

Dang! I got rear ended 3 months after finishing my Vert. Took 7 months to resolve everything…

I bought new cylinders and lines and they came with a pack of small o rings, I think they were to seal the line to the cylinder and pump. I have never seen a rebuild kit. Mine looked pressed and sealed permanently.

Thanks for sharing the details! Nice car, if I was in the market I would come look. I think he is going to pass for now….good luck with sale!

Sorry, you description appears to say Sprint. LOL. I wish I had reading skills!

Thanks, will share with him….is this a Sprint?? I see Sprint seats!

Hi all. I have a friend in metro Atlanta looking for a decent 71/72. He has a big block to use, so engine not required. If it has a decent interior and is mostly rust free thats a bonus….if you have anything to share pls drop on thread…

I have a friend looking for a decent driver to drop a big block in…can you supply a few interior pics? How is the body in terms of rust? Thanks!

I used to jack up my 455 cid olds custom cruiser station wagon with one of these. (5500 pounds or so)

I used the NPD a factory style for my 302. Great system but the H pip I bought with it didn’t fit so well….very good otherwise.

Yes if you are referring to the L shaped front edge of the fender those can stay on. You do have to remove the valance, and probably the bumper. On my car the grill is under the fenders, so it can stay on…. In the area of the spring and upper control arm, remove all the goop.

Ended up with mine in front of the radiator support, near the passenger headlight bucket…I routed the coolant line under the top edge of the RAD support….