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Here's additional pictures of the relay panel location if it helps. Certainly been there-done that-on thinking I could remember where things went. I'm in the middle of redoing my interior and these are what I took to help my poor memory... Bob

Absolutely Beautiful!!! You’re creating a masterpiece…very impressive. Love watching your journey

Yeah, I think you are probably right. I just didn't really understand why it was there since we all have the radio suppressor/condenser on our Alt wiring harness that joins at the voltage regulator already?

Here's the Radio I think tpj71mach is talking about. I have it in my car. It's a 1980-84 Ford Pickup or Van radio apparently. My uncle installed this in my car when he owned it many decades ago because they too wanted the cassette player, which I've enjoyed. I took this out during my...

Well happy belated birthday to your baby! That’s a great data point that your car too was towards the end of the production run of our generation 1 cars. Like you I’m fairly certain that my car was built the way we found it. It's been in our family for 49 of it's 51 year life & no one recalls...

Thanks for this. I've seen your 3-16A in other threads and appreciate you sharing it. You are right it's not in my Forel or actual hardcopy manuals either. But this doesn't match my 351c-4v. I have two Ported Vacuum Switches. One is a two port, that mounts on a special "H" shaped connector...

I'm overdue for providing an update. Mostly still discovering "issues" so my project scope is still expanding...go figure, and cleaning Zebart rust protection from as many places as I can get to in preparation for painting. Also many parts/components are coming in/back to address my "bucket...

That's really great news, and thank you again for sorting all of this out and sharing your journey on our forum. You guys have set me up for success! Bob

This thread has been very helpful to me in my project. Much appreciate all the work you've done and especially kingb1973. I have the exact same situation that you started with and have been trying to determine how to connect vacuum lines with our 2-port & 3-port vac switches properly. Also...

Just to wrap up this thread, I wanted to share what I learned from another member on our forum that most likely explains my 14ga Fusible Link wire overheating/loading. From my pictures of the burnt wire, he saw that my Starter Relay and Junction Block were wired incorrectly. He shared this...

Wow...you are a gold mine of information. I think you've solved this puzzle for me. Your knowledge that Holley made a thermal choke delay that looks similar put me on a path to look those up. Here's a link for others if they are interested in what you were talking about...

Just checked mine, so snapped these pictures that show my 73 Q-Code also has 3-1/4" spacing. Also, my U-Bolts are 6" in length, just a little longer than yours and you can see in my pictures how much thread is showing. I'd say you have a different rear end housing like Chuck say's above. I...

Thanks for that. I was fairly certain it wasn't a factory item, but your input makes me certain. I've been chasing the suggested "relay" idea as some sort of universal type relay. Just can't get my head around what it would be controlling with only 2 of the 4 wires connected? Thanks again, Bob

Thanks for your thoughts on this. The relay idea gives me somewhere to search. I really didn’t even know where to start. Bob

Here’s where mine is on a 73 convertible. I don’t know if it’s the same as a coupe. It’s 9-3/4” from the edge of the panel and 16” up from the bottom to the center point if it helps.

This week I discovered this non-factory electrical component mounted under the ignition coil of my 1973 351C Q-code. I've had this car for 20+ years and never noticed it before. I'm totally stumped what it's supposed to do and even if it's needed. For background, I've removed my entire HVAC...

You got it, great! I know exactly what you mean by patience (wish I had more) and great to hear nothing got broken! I wish I could have been more helpful but my dashboard and all of its components are at the body shop awaiting a fresh paint job to clean up 51 years of wear. So I couldn’t...

You bet...The Center Finish Panel needs to be pulled away from the dash so the heater controls can stay where they are. Can't tell for sure from your picture but it looks like you still have it attached. The heater panel is just "longer" than the opening. It's the same or close to the same...

You can leave all your heater control cables, electric fan wires & vacuum lines attached. No reason to disconnect any of it just to remove the center finish panel. Remove the heater control panel (4) four attaching screws so that once your center finish panel is free you can easily angle it...

Thanks for this reply Tom! Great information and pictures. Yeah my steering column is the tilt. I thought about splicing but gosh hated the thought of cobbling up a brand new harness. The turn switch listed on the NPD site also had a “review” comment that said a buyer ran into the 5” shorter...