I have that SAME vibration, but noticeable when driving over 2000 RPM. I have changed/updated everything that's been mentioned. Still- Thrummmm- Thrummmmm- Thrummmmm- Thruuuuummm.
The only thing that I haven't done it to replace the rear tranny seal. I also have a leak there.
Just sayin'. If you currently have your radio/unit connected to two "really good" rear speakers, you need to have either a second stereo output on your unit, or simply splice into each of those speaker lines running to the rear to get sounds up front.
But what I'm getting at is; I've faced this...
This might be a good time to repost the fact that I found a second build sheet under my carpet and sound pads, for a '73 Mach-1 in med metallic blue, 3 speed manual trans, and med blue vinyl interior. If you're in need, this could be yours.
Just a thought from a friend of mine. Any of these simple "kill-switch" ideas can be improved upon, by not using a switch at all, but installing a spade fuse socket instead. Park the car, take the fuse. It won't start, unless they happen to have a fuse on them.
Welcome to the forum. It would seem to me that you're going about it correctly. If you're in Texas, the rear louvers will be a great asset! I'm in Arizona, and my louvers, although aftermarket jobs, keep a lot of sun and heat from wrecking my interior.
I have an A/C idler pulley and bracket that I removed from a 351 Cleveland. The pulley bearings are smooth, and overall the bracket is in great shape.
I have included three pictures showing all sides of it.
I'm asking $120.00 for it. I have other A/C stuff I'll post at a later date.
Please P.M...
For every DIY-er who has an infuriatingly difficult-to-find problem in acceleration, I have found what the problem COULD be. I’ve had everything from my engine just flat-out die when I feathered the gas pedal to running fine with a little stagger that I just COULD NOT get rid of.
Timing was...
Great idea Hemikiller. To my ear (through the video, anyway) it sounds like a valve train problem, or a tappet.
I'd say try the brake-on throttle test, and see if it's something simple like an exhaust leak at a cylinder.