Recent content by Bill Kanode

Not only is this guy young and smart his company is great to buy parts from. I bought both shock towers from him for my 1971 mustang fastback sent to me in Ohio. I tried the same thing without paying attention and ruined my pulley. I bought a new pulley with the bearing installed for a Pinto...

I appreciate the heads up on the Yorkim bulbs so I bought and installed them. The posts from this site are phenomenal with great minds contributing. Thx, Bill

In my opinion I would suggest installing the vapor return line like it was manufactured not for originality but as a matter of good practice. I replaced ALL lines and parking brake cables with SS so they would look good forever and not to make a show car. I do this as a matter of practice on all...

I recently had the engine bay of my 1971 fastback media blasted with garnet media and it does a tremendous job. I have now decided to have the rest of the bottom of the car blasted as it makes the vehicle ready for paint after blowing off the excess dust. It is not cheap but what is cheap these...

I think that I have located a supplier in Washington state called SMS who is supplying a sample soon before I order the covers. Thx, Bill

I really like what you did with the valve covers. Looks like I will have to do that also with my rebuild. Where did you buy the Glyptal as I should use some also. Thx.

40 years ago I had an item like this on my 1970 Corvette to provide power to an electric choke. The copper lug fit under a bolt which the unit provides voltage based on the engine temperature to open the choke gradually as the temperature increases.

When I pulled off the hood for engine removal I noticed that the hood raised and lowered wrong so I tightened the hinge pins by using a large pin and large hammer remove the extra clearance in the pins.

It depends if you want it right or bandaid it. A good body shop can shoot new studs.I bought a professional tool that was sold by NAPA as I do several cars and use the gun to shoot long studs to use with the accompanying slide hammer to pull out dents. Although I am not a body shop I try to do...

Hi Hemi Killer as I will use that part number also on my 1971 car. You must be old like me (76) to remember all of these things. Did you find a supplier for the cloth inserts of my car? I can try to send the picture again of my seats. Thx Bill

I think you are on the right track with it controlling the electric choke after the engine is warmed. Although I will not be driving my 1971 351C mustang in cold weather I am changing from a 2V carb to a 4V Holley and aluminum Edelbrock manifold but using the electric choke for easier starting.

I bought my 1971 fastback 15 months ago as the 2nd owner and had it towed to a shop for fluid changes as it had been sitting in his garage for at least 2 decades. I was disappointed in the shop who didn't change the fluids and the 351C bent 3 push rods. I decided to rebuild the Cleveland engine...

I have used 2 types of protection for lines that comes on rolls and cut to length. The best one is the one that has glass fiber imbedded in silicone and neither is very costly. In any case the exhaust pipes are not much hotter at the rear of the car as it is under the hood where the fuel line...

If you want to have enough threads use an item called a "RIVNUT" which comes in most popular sizes and materials. I am using them in many places on my 1971 351C fastback and the installation tools are readily available. I think the popularity of them may have originated in the aircraft industry...

In my change over I added the Scott Drake needle bearings to my automatic pedal assembly and installed the Modem Driveline clutch pedal and trimmed the automatic pedal pad as instructed.